The Fashion Week Drama Continues!

Last week we continued with the hoopla over the worldwide fashion week scheduling conflict and it only gets worse with an update from fashionista.com.

The Spring 2013 show season clusterf*ck continues. The CFDA and the BFC reacted immediately after the news came down from Milan’s Camera Nazionale della Moda on Friday that it would show its members’ spring 2013 collections September 19-25, essentially eating into two of New York’s planned days and completely eclipsing London‘s whole five-day schedule.
Diane von Furstenberg, the president of the CFDA, sent out an open letter to the fashion community yesterday. She was rather conciliatory in it, stating that the show date hoopla was a “misunderstanding” and that she was “convinced it will be resolved.” But don’t think she’s going down without a fight. She also told WWD:

All of a sudden, on the second Thursday next September, we finally have the good side, and now they want to make us pay. I think this is ridiculous. We are a community of designers. I would like to believe that what we have created with the CFDA — the sense of family and community — is something we can do worldwide. We are all designers, we are all in the same industry. We compete with one another but we love and support each other. That is what it should be.
Confused yet? Here are the main points of the disagreement:

-The CFDA and BFC maintain that there was an agreement reached in 2008 that the shows would always start in New York on the second Thursday in September, with subsequent cities showing in succession after that. Mario Boselli, the head of Milan’s Camera Nazionale della Moda, said he “proved” that no such agreement existed–at least in writing–by producing 2008 paperwork regarding show scheduling, WWD reports.

-The CFDA doesn’t want to start the shows a week earlier (the first Thursday in September) because Labor Day is on that Monday, and it presents challenges to the designers to get their shows ready on time. New York designers had to show the Thursday after Labor Day this past season, because it happened to be the second Thursday in September, so it can be done. It’s just far from ideal.

-Milan doesn’t want to show a week later because they think it will affect their production schedule and ability to get product to retailers in time (which frankly seems a little silly because Paris always shows into October and they don’t seem to have an issue with delivery.)

-The British Fashion Council, which represents London’s designers–and whose designers arguably are the ones really getting the shaft in this whole thing–can’t change its dates because of venue availability due to the Olympic and Paralympic games which are being held in London.

-Paris is staying out of it, though to make this work as the CFDA hoped (with New York starting the second Thursday in September), they would have had to move their dates a week later, too. But they didn’t.

So what are the potential outcomes?
1.) New York capitulates and moves its shows back a week, and sucks it up by showing the Thursday after Labor Day.

2.) London also sucks it up and moves back a week, and hopes for venue availability.

3.) Milan and France move their dates five days later–it’s not even a full week, because London only shows for five days–and continue with the “second Thursday in September” start date.

4.) Everyone is stubborn and nothing changes, forcing editors and buyers to take sides.

WWD tried to talk to designers, but no one wanted to comment. Some sources at the CNMI, who wanted to remain anonymous, claim the BFC never communicated the diffuculties they were having with the Olympics and venue scheduling. There was also the suggestion that New York try to condense its fashion week into five days, because it’s “too long as it is.” Now those are fighting words!

So stand by. We’re certain that someone is going to end up switching dates to make this work, it’s just a matter of who.

Wine And Caffeine, The New SPF Lotion ?!!?

One of our favorite fashion writer's, Cheryl Wischhover, tells us that,

"Summer still isn’t over, people. And even when it is, sunscreen is a year-round proposition–sun damage can occur even with winter sun exposure. So imagine my pleasure to discover that two of my favorite things, red wine and caffeine, may be protective against skin cancer.



Well, sort of. A scientific study out of the University of Barcelona found that some chemicals in the grapes used in red wine may help prevent skin cancer. While this study was gleefully touted in a lot of media outlets, be careful of the conclusions you draw. The scientists studied a concentrated compound in a petri dish (“in vitro”) and looked at its effects on cell changes which may be responsible for causing cancer. The wine compound showed promise, but potentially as a topical agent (not as a jug of sangria), and only after a lot more studies are completed. (Go here for a great explanation of the limitations of this study, written in lay terms by a PhD student, via HuffPo.)



OK, so what about coffee? A study out of Rutgers University is more promising. It’s long been suspected by the scientific community that there’s a link between caffeine and cancer prevention, but the mechanism was unknown. Now a chemical pathway, which is affected by caffeine, has been identified, and mice showed less incidence of skin cancer when the particular pathway was inhibited, which caffeine can do. The next step is to figure out if it works topically.



Obviously this is all in very early stages and you should still use more traditional means of sun protection. I just spent two weeks in California drinking copious amounts of wine and coffee, and still managed to get burned. Perhaps all the margaritas I also had negated the positive effects of the other two? More studies are necessary."

Wine and Coffee: 'A Sommelier Compares Wine and Van Houtte Coffee.'

Rock God Steven Tyler Influences New Macy’s Collection

Fashion writer Cheryl Wischhover discloses how

Steven Tyler,

"Is enjoying his umpteenth resurgence as a pop culture commodity right now with his popular stint as a judge on American Idol. A long-time style icon, and still proving he has a good eye–he was an early adopter of the hair feather extension, after all–Steven Tyler is the inspiration for a new contemporary clothing line called Andrew Charles. The line will be exclusive to Macy’s, and will be sold in the store’s Impulse department.

Andrew Charles is the brain child of Andy Hilfiger, brother of Tommy (who isn’t involved in this endeavor). The Hilfigers are well-documented supporters of the music industry, and Andy told WWD, “I grew up on Aerosmith and Steven Tyler. I’ve always loved his music and his style.” Andy was involved in J.Lo‘s Sweetface line, so the blurring of music and fashion is familiar to him.



While Tyler isn’t directly involved in the design of the line, he’s contracted for a year as the face of the brand. And it’s going to be a family affair. Tyler’s daughter, Chelsea Tyler, will also be featured in the campaign (see her in two of the line’s looks, at right and below.) About 15% of the line is men’s, and Tyler is a direct influence on the style there. There will even be a line of scarves, called “Rock Scarf.”





*Photo: WWD

The women’s collection continues the 70′s rock goddess vibe, citing Marianne Faithfull, Stevie Nicks and Anita Pallenberg as inspiration. This begs the question of whether a modern shopper will get these influences, but “gypsy, boho-chic,” as Hilfiger described it, is timeless, right? A Macy’s rep told WWD, “It’s a little bit of the older customer, and now the younger customer who knows [Steven Tyler] from American Idol.”

Eventually the line will branch out to other products, like handbags, jewelry, and the next logical extension, guitars and amps. Andrew Charles is also teaming up wth NYC club Dominion NY, for monthly music nights. Bringing an Andrew Charles hangtag gets you free admission into the club.



Are you ready to rock out with this collection?

Just as a refresher, if you didn't happen to catch the live telecast, below is Steven Tyler's exhilarating performance of "Dream On" at this year's American Idol back in May of 2011.

Oscar de la Renta Talks New Fragrance, A B-day Gift From Anna Wintour, And So Much More!

According to fashion writer, Cheryl Wischhover,

"It’s not often that one gets an invitation to hang out with a legendary designer at his country home, but that’s exactly what happened yesterday when a group of beauty editors was welcomed into Oscar de la Renta‘s quiet spread in Connecticut.

The occasion? The launch of the first perfume developed completely under his control since the house won back its fragrance license last year after a long, expensive battle with former partners. Most perfume launches don’t enjoy such a personal and heartfelt celebration, but this one was particularly special to Oscar, his family, and the company. While Esprit d’Oscar, a reinterpretation of the original Oscar scent was sent into the world with an appropriate amount of fanfare, the new fragrance, called “Live in Love” is obviously the designer’s statement to the world of beauty that he’s back.



The scent launches in October, and will include a body lotion ($49-$98). Like most things Oscar designs, this fragrance is for women, not girls. It’s a sophisticated green floral, and after being thoroughly spritzed upon walking onto the lovely patio, I can report that it dries down to a lovely, subtle, musky finish.

As for the campaign? Rather than throw another pretty celebrity into the already celeb-littered fragrance ad landscape, Oscar wanted his ads to be memorable, and to be instantly recognizable “when you cover up the picture of the bottle.” The solution? An old-school stylized sketch of a woman, a throwback to how beauty products were advertised in the 50s and 60s. It manages to look completely modern, and one of the editors pointed out that the woman looked like Erika Bearman (aka @OscarPRgirl) (who was at the lunch and absolutely killing it in a pair of navy high-waisted palazzo pants).

At lunch with Oscar, who is quite effusive and chatty (and is clearly at an age where he no longer really cares what he says), he kept the table in stitches while regaling us with stories. He celebrated his 79th birthday last week, but said, “I hate celebrations. A birthday means something only before 15 and after 90.” But he received a surprise gift this year, courtesy of Anna Wintour. Further fueling our suspicion that this Vogue archive might actually be happening, Oscar told us that Anna gave him a leather-bound book containing every single picture of every Oscar de la Renta garment that has ever appeared in Vogue. With a 30+ year career under his belt, the Vogue team obviously had to dig deep into the archives. There were also letters from his wife, Anna, and celeb fans like Hillary Clinton and SJP.

Oscar’s also throwing some resources and creativity at his beauty business to keep up with his successful fashion line, which has seen a resurgence lately, with everyone from starlets to A-listers wearing his designs. We can expect more fragrances in the near future, as well as *gasp* a nail and lipstick line. Can you imagine how gorgeous this will be?

Cheers to Oscar and his family, and we’re looking forward to his next surprise." - Fashionista.com

Why Are Christy Turlington and Julia Roberts’ Ads For 'L’Oréal' Being Banned in Britian???

Wanna know why Christy Turlington and Julia Roberts’ ads for L’Oréal are being banned in Britian? Well according to fashion writer Cheryl Wischhover, she's saying that...

"With governments getting involved in the sometimes misleading world of beauty advertising, cosmetics companies are going to have to ease up on the airbrushing, as L’Oréal just learned the hard way. The UK government recently released guidelines limiting the use of misleading ad alterations, and the American Medical Association recommended similar measures here in the US. The UK is definitely putting its money where its mouth is, and just banned a series of ads featuring Julia Roberts and Christy Turlington.

The Daily Mail reports today that the cosmetics giant, who owns Lancôme and Maybelline, had to ‘fess up about the post-production techniques used in recent ads featuring the 40-something celebs. Julia Roberts’ Lancôme Teint Miracle foundation ad features the actress looking radiant, but the company admitted that post-production techniques were used. The UK Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) ruled that the ad “didn’t accurately reflect what the product could achieve” and subsequently pulled the ads.

The Christy Turlington ads for Maybelline’s new Eraser foundation sticks were even more egregious. While a disclaimer in small print on the bottom of the ad states the image is an “illustrated effect,” the company admitted that they used digital re-imaging to “lighten the skin, clean up make-up, reduce dark shadows and shading around the eyes, smooth the lips and darken the eyebrows,” according to the Daily Mail.

If cosmetics companies are going to hire a non-20-year-old to advertise their products, they need to let the lady’s 40 flag fly. Otherwise, why bother?"

Gareth Pugh Plus MAC Equal Lethal Weapon!

Fashion writer Cheryl Wischhover lets us in on British designer Gareth Pugh's latest business endeavors...

"MAC is teasing us mercilessly about the brand’s impending collaboration with Brit designer Gareth Pugh. News leaked a few weeks ago that the designer and MAC, who have worked together on runway shows since the beginning of the designer’s career, are doing a limited edition makeup collection which will hit counters in November.

MAC hosted a party last night to fete Gareth and the collab, and left us wanting to know much, much more–which we suppose is the whole point. This collection is going to be major, whether you’re a makeup nerd or not.

We spoke to Gareth and John Demsey (group president for the Estee Lauder companies) to try to pry some details out of them. MAC approached Gareth to do a collection after many seasons of successful runway shows and an installation at Milk Studios. “If I was going to do something with MAC I wanted it to be something special, and quite specific,” Gareth told us. “The collection is very all-encompassing and versatile. It has the scope to go to the extreme with it. You can really play around with it. I’d rather people do that than copy what we’ve done for the ad images,” he said. He also acknowledged that his own experience with wearing makeup helped him decide what he wanted to do with the collection.

Gareth then showed us an example of how you can achieve subtle vs. extreme with the collection. He was wearing nail varnish from the collection (which we were forbidden to photograph, much to our chagrin). It’s an iridescent shade that looks green or purple, depending how the light hits it. He had layered it over black for a very dramatic and beetle shell-esque look. It was magnificent, and we can’t wait to try it.

The packaging is also going to be different from anything MAC has done. Gareth said, “It’s very heavy. It’s kind of like a weapon. It’s very different to MAC packaging. It’s obviously still MAC, but it’s me and MAC.” John told us, “It’s very luxe, futuristic, and architectural,” which makes perfect sense, given the designer’s aesthetic. (The price puts the collection into the luxe category, too. John told us that it will be about 20% higher than MAC’s normal prices.)

We can’t wait to see the fruits of this collaboration. Makeup as a weapon is something we can totally get behind."

Gwen Stefani Does a Kid’s Line for Target and Madonna’s Material Girl Expands (Now Includes Beauty)

One of our favorite fashion writer's, Cheryl Wischhover, shares that both Gwen Stefani and Madonna have alot in common these days...

"Whether you’re a hip parent with a newborn or a teen on the verge of leaving the juniors’ department, pop star mommies Madonna and Gwen Stefani have you covered.

Gwen Stefani‘s Harajuku Lover’s line is shrinking down for the diaper and preschool set; Stefani is taking her pop-arty ode to Japanese street dressing and making it kid friendly for Target. Called Harajuku Mini for Target, the line will be introduced in November and again in January 2012. While she’s designed children’s clothing and shoes for her contemporary LAMB line, this is a first for the younger Harajuku line.

“Target has given me the creative freedom to design kid’s clothing that is different than most anything you usually see out there with great quality, attention to detail and most of all, available at amazing prices,” Stefani told WWD. The prices will range from $3.99 to $29.99, which is very refreshing, considering all the high-end children’s lines that are launching lately. Stefani’s kids Kingston and Zuma are always at the apex of style, so we expect great things from this line.

Moving up a few grade levels, Madonna and daughter Lola’s Material Girl line at Macy’s is doing so well that they’re expanding into new territory. Sleepwear, intimates, and beauty offerings are all on the horizon for the juniors’ line.

When it launches, the beauty line will include nail polish, lip gloss, and body sprays and lotions (and with names like Wicked Watermelon, Flirty Fruit, and Sinful Sugar, you get an idea of the scents.) “I chose scents that I loved,” Lourdes told WWD. The beauty line will retail from $7 to $12, comparable to drug store prices.

Intimates are new to the collection, but don’t expect Gaultier cone bras. Sweet rose and polka dot prints, boyfriend briefs, and lace will define the offerings.

Finally, expect to see more party dresses, outerwear, and trendy denim. Kelly Osbourne continues on as the face of the brand in upcoming fall ads."

Tom Ford Speaks To Hong Kong Journalist

Fashion writer, Cheryl Wischhover, lets us in on Tom Ford's latest interview offering from a Hong Kong magazine publication.

"Time Out Hong Kong finally put its very bizarre and extremely entertaining interview with Tom Ford online. While some quotes about his thoughts on parenthood made the rounds last week, we finally got to read the whole thing this morning and almost spit out our coffee at several points. (Like when he recounted the tale of a German journalist questioning whether the flowers in his room were fake or not, because Americans have a lot of fake things.)



The Hong Kong-based journalist attempted to ask Ford questions ranging from his new movie to beauty standards in Asia, and he was met with some strongly worded responses, to say the least. Here are some of the best excerpts:



On his new comedy:

When asked if he would discuss the new comedy he’s working on, Ford said, “I believe you should do something and then talk about it, which is why I didn’t talk about my women’s collection until it just appeared in New York….I don’t want to talk about it because I believe you’re also giving away energy when you talk about things.” He was then asked if he feels close to comedy, said he’s “surprisingly more humorous than people realize,” then refused to tell a joke.



On his world view:

“It may take 250 years, but we will be one race. The world, It will all blur together. So I think we’re at the last moments of separate ethnic races.”



On children and privacy:

He and his partner probably won’t have children, but if they did: “Maybe you’ll see it when it’s 18, but I will keep it out of the spotlight. I wouldn’t use it as a press tool, as some people I know have recently.”



-On Asian body types:

Ford got irritated during this part of the interview and accused the writer of asking “racist” questions (keep in mind, this is an Asian publication, and the writer was focusing on his use of Asian models and body types). “Honestly, growing up in America and Europe, I don’t think as racially as the questions you are asking.”



-On John Galliano:

“I know John, I like John a lot. Obviously he’s very troubled. I feel very sorry for him. Historically, Yves Saint Laurent had drug problems. A lot of different fashion designers had drug and alcohol problems. It’s a very tough, tough, tough business. You have to be very strong.”



-On body size and who his collection fits:

“…Americans are too fat. And in London they are starting to get fat, too. So I have to say that if we have to talk about race system and nationalism, I find it refreshing that everyone [who is] Chinese is slim.” He then went on to acknowledge, “But I do design for a specific person who appreciates… who’s probably thin, quite honestly. She takes care of herself…So no, you’re not gonna go in there and find elasticated waist bands and flip flops.”



Too bad. We’d love a Tom Ford-designer flip flop. At least we would have a chance of affording it."

Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear by javierlobe

Tom Ford's Beauty Line Plus Two New Fragrances Coming To A Shop Near You!

One of our favorite fashion writer's, Cheryl Wishhover, let us in on Tom Ford's new Beauty product line along with two new fragrances...

"Tom Ford, arbiter of all things crave-worthy, is launching a full color cosmetics collection, available this September. It is a whopping 132-piece collection and also includes skin care.

Ford told WWD that he’d wanted to do a color collection since his days at Gucci, but that people were not “convinced that I had a voice in color until the lipsticks started selling out again and again.” (That would be his 12-piece Private Blend Lip Color Collection, now legendary.) He recounts a lifelong interest in beauty, which is not that shocking for someone so dedicated to aesthetic perfection. One of his first experiments with beauty resulted in a trip to the ER after he suffered an allergic reaction from putting cucumbers on his eyes, according to WWD.

Ford continues to work with the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. to produce this expanded line, so it’s going to be a powerhouse brand. Expect to see it in limited (read: very high end) numbers of stores at first; it will be at Tom Ford and Bergdorf Goodman, as well as some Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue stores. However, the lipsticks, which will be beefed up from 12 colors to 18, will be more widely available.

Expect to see a lot of color and strong pigment in the collection. Ford told WWD that he likes a strong eye and mouth for night, and the look is Studio 54 in 1978. There’s attention to detail, like the calligraphy tip brow pens that allow you to draw on individual brow hairs. “A nice thick brow is the key to a youthful look,” Ford said. And expect some raciness, like a lipgloss called Lost Cherry.
As if all this wasn’t enough, he’s also adding two fragrances to his multiple-FiFi-winning Private Blend collection: Santal Blush and Jasmin Rouge. The fragrances range in price from $195 to $475. The color collection will range from $30 to $250; lipsticks are $48.

The icing on the cake? Tom Ford himself stars with Lara Stone in the ads, shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. “I’m not in the ads because I’m vain…the product sells better with me in the ads,” he told the paper. We think it’s going to sell just fine, regardless."

Kate Middleton and Prince William Exposed On The New Cover Of Vanity Fair

One of our favorite fashion writers, Cheryl Wischhover, lets us in on the latest excursions of Kate Middleton and Prince William as they prepare for their North American Tour and cover the latest pages of Vanity Fair! Oh and there's talk about Pippa’s Cleavage too, cause you can't forget that now..."

Nothing like coming back from a long weekend to be bombarded with news and images of the newly-minted royal couple and Pippa Middleton. From the North American trip itinerary to a new Vanity Fair cover to ogling Pippa courtside at the French Open, we are reveling in all the news.

First off, the cover of the July issue of Vanity Fair features Kate and William in a never-before-seen snap taken shortly after their engagement in November 2010. Shot by Mario Testino, the couple looks relaxed and happy; it’s less formal than their original engagement portrait. And if you keep track of these things, this cover comes 14 years after Testino shot Diana for the cover of Vanity Fair.

The article, which drops June 3, features details of the couple’s home life (who does which chores!), the experience of watching their own wedding on TV, and some honeymoon details. Other Testino pictures, including Princess Diana from 1997, are included in the feature.

The Vanity Fair cover and feature coincides nicely with the royal couple’s upcoming North American tour. Kate and William will be flying to Canada on June 30, and they’ll be spending more than a week in the country enjoying the “diversity” and “vibrancy” of Canada (descriptors, courtesy the release). According to the Daily Mail, their visit will be paid for by the Canadian government. Kate’s late grandfather was stationed in Canada during World War II, and she is interested in connecting with her roots. Their official schedule, in case you’re interested in following them around, is as follows:

June 30-July 2: The National Capital Region (Ottawa, Ontario and Gatineau, Quebec)
July 2: Montreal
July 3: Quebec City
July 3-4: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island
July 4: Summerside, Prince Edward Island
July 4-6: Yellowknife, Northwest Territories
July 6-8: Calgary, Alberta

The end of their visit will culminate at the Calgary Stampede, one of the largest rodeos in the world. One can only imagine how royals will dress and act at a rodeo. After that, they’re off to LA for a few days, though the Foreign and Commonwealth Office warns not to expect the royals to be hobnobbing with a bunch of celebrities–they’ll be there on an official itinerary. (No details of the LA leg of the trip are available yet.) People.com reports that Kate will need 40 wardrobe changes. We think a lot of high street shops are going to be very, very happy.

And to top off the weekend’s royal news, Pippa was snapped sitting court side at the French Open. She wore a snug black cap sleeve top with a polka dot skirt that did not show off her butt. Various media outlets tried to play up the fact that Pippa also has some decent cleavage. The somewhat transparent top shows that she’s wearing a very structured bra, so we think her cleavage is perfectly adequate, and that she relies on good undergarments like so many other women do. One thing we couldn’t help but noticing? She’s wearing the summery version of those dowdy wedges that the royals seem to be drawn to lately. Let’s hope this trend doesn’t find its way across the pond."